Thursday, 20 October 2011

3. Design to reduce Chemical Impacts

Ted's 3rd strategy focuses on using the appropriate process and material selections. It attempts to cut down on harmful chemical processes such as devore, using chemical dyes, mordants etc and instead using organic., natural dyes and non-chemical decorative procedures e.g. laser cutting.

Each product has a beginning, middle and end and each stage should incorporate environmentally friendly procedures, be it sourcing the yarns ethically, using ecological washing powder or designing without waste.

  • The textile industry uses up 25% or all the chemicals used worldwide.
  •  20 000 people in developing countries die each year from poisoning by agricultural pesticides.
  • A typical conventional cotton t-shirt uses about 150 grams of acutely toxic pesticides and insecticides; that's the size of a cup of sugar. (Soil Association) 
PUMA
Puma aim to produce compostable t-shirts and trainers which would reduce the amount of landfill. They follow William McDonaugh's thesis of 'Cradle to Cradle', that each design should be a cycle and should not end in landfill but continue to replenish and prosper the environment. Not only have we begun recycling our fruit and vegetable peelings but soon we will be able to add our worn-out trainers to the compost heap.
Franz Koch, Puma's boss are 'confident that in the near future we will be able to bring the first shoes, T-shirts and bags, that are either recyclable or compostable, to the market,'. He explained that "It follows two circuits, the technical and the biological: I can use old shoes to make new ones or something completely different, such as car tyres," said Koch, who has led the sports clothing company since July.
"In the biological cycle, I can make shoes and shirts that are compostable so I can shred them and bury them in the back garden. We are working on products that meet these two criteria."
In 2010 Puma unveiled the Clever Little Bag which eradicated the need for shoes to be placed in a bulky, wasteful cardobard box. Instead shoes were placed in a reusable bag made from 65% less paper as well as having a reduced water, energy and diesel consumption.

If Puma succeed in developing recyclable shoes then they could revolutionise the clothing industry.


Anke Domaske - German fashion designer and microbiologist


Domaske has produced organic chemical-free clothing using milk to create the first man-made, industrial-strength fibre at the Hanover-based company Qmilch.
Not only is it environmentally friendly but it has major health benefits; helpign to soothe skin allergies due to the gentle nature of milk. The amino acids in the protein strands are also anti-bacterial, anti-aging (wrinkles will be reduced due to the calming, moisturising content of milk)and can help regulate blood circulation and body temperature.


Known as Qmilch; it can be folded like silk but washed and dried like cotton.
The only downsides to Qmilch is that at $28 per kg, Domaske's fabric is more expensive to produce than organic cotton (40% less). However, qmilch makes sure to use only milk that is left over from other production processes and that cannot be consumed by people. What's more, only 2 litres of water is needed to produce 1kg of fabric in comparison with cotton which needs more than 10,000 litres of water per kg. I think they are on to a winning formula especially if they use local production resources and manage to sell their idea onto major industries. The hospital market would surely benefit from hypoallergenic fabrics! 
Where can i sign up for this relaxing treat?


SO, WHAT SHOULD OUR CLOTHES BE MADE OF?

Lucy Siegle has been researching which materials are eco-friendly and which are not:
She states:
  • An average cotton T-shirt requires 500 litres of water and 40g of pesticides to make, plus carcinogenic chemicals used in the finishing process. Globally, cotton production accounts for the use of 22% of all agricultural insecticides (about $2.5bn worth).
  • Nylon is reckoned to be responsible for 50 per cent of UK emissions of nitrous oxide (a poisonous greenhouse gas) 
  • Polyester is derived from petrochemicals.


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